Welcome to another issue of the Island Wrap, your weekly window to coastal Thailand. It was a busy week in the region as Cyclone Amphan hit nearby countries, THAI Airways flirted with bankruptcy and Thailand inched closer to reopening domestic tourism. On top of all that, yesterday was World Turtle Day!
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This past week I published a story on Ko Tarutao, a large and mountainous island with well-preserved wilderness and some riveting history. In the original version that went out by email, I mistakenly failed to mention an illegal migrant prison discovered on Ko Tarutao in 2013. I’ve since updated the article with this paragraph:
In 2013, journalist John Sparks uncovered a secret prison in the south of Ko Tarutao, where human traffickers were holding Rohingya migrants for ransom after promising them safe passage to Malaysia or Australia. His report helped lead to the discovery of more secret migrant prisons in Southern Thailand.
Also, one correction from last week’s Island Wrap: I wrote that newly resumed interprovincial trains were “rolling all the way down to Hat Yai,” but, in fact, Thailand’s southbound trains are currently reaching only as far south as Thung Song in Nakhon Si Thammarat province, 180 km north of Hat Yai. You’ll find more details on Thailand’s domestic travel situation below.
Over in the Couchfish newsletter, Stuart McDonald took a break from Northern Laos to visit Ko Sukorn in the Thai Andaman. Why? “Because it has nothing.” Is that reason enough to go? You better believe it.
Part of Mu Ko Tarutao Marine Park, the stone arch of Ko Khai is larger than it appears in this photo.
Island of the week
On the islet of Ko Khai, known as Ko Chuku to the Urak Lawoi people, aquamarine water and soft white sand surrounds a wee hump of woods and a large thalu, or stone arch. The name means “Egg Island” after the sea turtles that occasionally nest here and on neighboring Ko Tanga (aka Ko Klang), which is also free of human inhabitation. Reaching this group via private longtail boat from Ko Lipe or Ko Tarutao is pricey, but at least one of the speedboat ferries from Pakbara briefly stops here on the way to Ko Lipe. For more on Ko Khai, see this post on Getting Stamped.
Business of the week
Andaman Discoveries was born out of a non-profit foundation that worked tirelessly to assist people who lost homes, livelihoods and loved ones when the 2004 Asian Tsunami hit the upper Thai Andaman coast. The group now offers homestay programs in coastal villages; eco-minded tours of Ko Surin and the Similans; study tours introducing students to local culture and ecology; and volunteer placements via the associated North Andaman Network Foundation. Based in Khuraburi, the company / foundation is empowering local communities through sustainable tourism.
Charity of the week
The EcoThailand Foundation works to rehabilitate the lower Thai Gulf from its bases on Ko Phangan and mainland Surat Thani. Initiatives include seawater testing to identify and stop sources of pollution; community education to promote environmentally sustainable ways; and a “plastic-free Phangan” campaign that aims to implement the use of compostable biopolymers at more than 100 lodgings on the island. All of these efforts help to keep the Gulf safe for marine life.
Website of the week
The place to meet sea turtles is, of course, below the sea — and a great way to explore dreamy underwater sites without leaving your sofa is by giving Dive Happy a browse. Created by Thailand-based dive journalist and travel writer Chris Mitchell, the site recently featured a live-aboard trip around the Similans along with dives in Indonesia and Myanmar. Chris also does the Travel Happy site, where you’ll find informative “quick guides” to destinations in coastal Thailand and beyond.
Happy World Turtle Day
On Ko Samui this past week, islanders set up fencing and a security camera to protect the first sea turtle nest found on Laem Sor in more than a decade. Meanwhile, beach cleaners on Ko Lipe managed to rescue a young sea turtle that washed ashore after being trapped in a scrap of fishing net. Sadly, similar stories that don’t end so well are common around coastal Thailand and beyond.
In Krabi province, gold-spotted mudskippers are thriving amid the mangroves of Laem Sak on the east coast of Phang Nga Bay. In addition to their shiny gold specks, “their habit of grouping together to find food and of not fighting for territory” makes this sub-species of amphibious fish distinct from common mudskippers, explained conservationist Niwat Wattanayomnaporn to The Nation.
In the Thai Gulf, the Dept. of National Parks shared footage of adorable dusky leaf monkey infants looking all tuckered out in the Ang Thong Islands.
Back in the Thai Andaman, Lanta Coral Reefs posted a bunch of fantastic photos showing coral that appears to be in terrific shape around Ko Yung, an islet near Ko Phi Phi that was closed to tourists four years ago.
Meanwhile on Ko Chang (Trat), what appears to be a king cobra was spotted taking a leisurely slither down the beach.
“The sea will be filled with trash”
Community-driven tidal garbage removal continues on many Thai islands and coastal areas, including an extensive underwater clean-up undertaken by otherwise idle dive instructors based on Ko Lanta.
However, physical distancing regulations and beach closures have hampered these types of efforts in some places, frustrating environmentalist Amara Wichithong in Chonburi. “I worry that after the Covid-19, I would imagine that the sea will be filled with trash,” she told Juarawee Kittisilpa of Reuters.
Elsewhere in Chonburi province, the Pattaya City Council is finally bringing a waste disposal incinerator to Ko Lan, one of several small and heavily touristed Thai islands that have suffered severe garbage mismanagement in recent years.
Cyclone Amphan hits nearby countries
Earlier this week, Amphan briefly became the strongest cyclone ever recorded in the Bay of Bengal, west of the Andaman Sea. Though it weakened slightly to category four status before making landfall, the cyclone devastated Kolkata along with other parts of India and Bangladesh. Damage was reported in Myanmar as well. By yesterday afternoon, the total death toll had reached close to 100.
The Thai Andaman coast escaped serious damage, although flash floods did occur on Phuket as waves taller than two meters lashed Southwest Thai beaches.
Surfers took advantage of the breaks in Krabi and Trang, among other provinces, and a surfer on Phuket was arrested after he broke beach-closure restrictions to ride the waves. Hopefully the thrill was worth a trip to the police station.
Covid-19 update
Thailand reported only 13 infections and no deaths from Covid-19 this past week. Only six of the infections were transmitted within the country, with the rest discovered among Thais who were tested immediately after returning from abroad.
Two cases were discovered on Phuket, including an asymptomatic Italian man who presented himself for testing while preparing to travel.
Since the start of the outbreak in January, Thailand’s total numbers now stand at 3,040 infections and 56 deaths. Only 63 patients remain in hospitals nationwide. Willingness to wear masks may partly explain the low numbers; a survey revealed that 95% of Thais are regularly wearing masks in public, the highest percentage of all ASEAN countries.
If only people wore motorbike helmets at a similar rate, then we’d really be getting somewhere. In Thailand, one of the world’s most dangerous countries to drive in, traffic deaths have spiked as lockdown measures were eased.
State of emergency to remain
“Infected people are still out there,” said the Center for Covid-19 Situation Administration spokesman, Dr. Taweesilp Visanuyothin, while defending a proposal for an additional month under a state of emergency that is expected to be officially extended in an announcement on Tuesday. The nighttime curfew, currently 11:00 P.M. to 4:00 A.M., is expected to be shortened by one hour.
On Phuket alone, some 1,600 people have been arrested for breaking the curfew.
Meanwhile, the economic tragedy grinds on. Chairman of the Thai Chamber of Commerce warned that 10 million people could lose their jobs if restrictions are kept in place for much longer. Bangkok-based Agoda.com, a large hotel booking site, laid off 1,500 employees. Long-struggling THAI Airways, the national carrier, cut 6,000 jobs and submitted a rehabilitation plan to bankruptcy court.
A video showing Patong Beach — typically the busiest nightlife area on Phuket — before, during and after the recent lockdown. (Source: Trevor Marshall)
In a country that has not been particularly hard hit by Covid-19 but is certain to suffer badly from a lack of foreign tourists for months to come, many are anxious to get the economy moving as much as possible — and fast. Of the world’s 50 largest economies, only the Philippines is more reliant on foreign tourism than Thailand, according to a 2018 study by the World Travel and Tourism Council.
Groups ranging from masseurs to shipping companies are calling for an end to the state of emergency and an easing of travel restrictions. Only 36 out of 3,073 applications for government-promised “soft loans” to rescue tourism operators have been approved, reported Dusida Worrachaddejchai for Bangkok Post. In Thailand, a whole bunch of people are barely hanging on.
Pattaya — a city with huge tourism, nightlife and sex work industries — has been hit especially hard economically. There and in other tourism centers like Phuket and Ko Samui, the unemployed continue to crowd into rice lines and seek out giving pantries. A stranded Englishman was reportedly among the needy this past week.
Most people in Thailand are now free to visit Ko Tao’s Freedom Beach.
Ko Tao unlocked
Surat Thani authorities reinstated public access to Ko Tao this past week, ending more than a month of closure to non-residents. Ferry services to this popular diving enclave are set to resume from Ko Phangan and Ko Samui on Monday.
After flights from Bangkok to Ko Samui resumed last week, numerous travelers reported providing only phone number and a body temperature check upon arrival at Samui Airport. However, authorities reserve the right to quarantine travelers deemed to be at “high risk” of carrying Covid-19. Several hotels and attractions on the island, including Samui Elephant Haven, are reopening their doors.
Virtually all other Thai islands remain off limits to non-residents or those who do not reside in the provinces where the islands are located. Many hotel owners plan to stay closed through rainy season on Ko Chang (Trat) and other islands.
Authorities in Krabi province are still allowing only a couple of dozen approved hotels to stay open to the public until at least 1st June. Along with Chumphon, Trang, Satun, Ranong and Trat, Krabi is still requiring 14-day quarantine for arriving travelers. This is the official line, anyway, as reports have recently surfaced of travelers crossing some of these provincial borders without issue. Quite a few tourists who were stranded in Krabi are are now relocating to Ko Samui and surrounds.
The Railay peninsula, which is accessible only by boat, is one of only a few parts of Krabi province that remains closed to people who are already residing within the provincial borders. Others include Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta and national park areas like Ko Poda and Than Bok Khorani.
Meanwhile, freedom of movement has been fully restored on Phuket, including to and from Bang Tao, where several Covid-19 infections surfaced in previous weeks. Phuket’s beaches remain closed, however, and access to the island is still restricted. Anyone wishing to leave Phuket needs to apply for permission beforehand. As with Krabi, Phuket’s airport is to remain closed until at least 1st June.
In the upper Thai Gulf, Chonburi province’s primary beaches remain closed as well. The popular Nong Nooch Garden is set to reopen on the 30th of this month, however, and residents are hopeful that beaches will reopen on 1st June.
Overall, things are starting to loosen up. Shopping malls, fitness centers, swimming pools and even historical parks are now reopening around the country.
To facilitate contact tracing, the government is requiring anyone who enters stores and shopping centers to scan a QR code with their smartphone, or write down their name and phone number. Even the lone 7-eleven in the gated community where I now sit is requiring shoppers to abide by the Thai Chana tracking system.
Time to start traveling?
To be safe, I’m going to wait until (hopefully) next month to travel anywhere beyond neighboring provinces. However, numerous Thailand residents and foreign tourists have reported no problems when venturing around the country by private vehicle over the past week. Your mileage may vary, but hotels in Hua Hin and Ko Samui are already offering considerable discounts to attract domestic travelers.
While a handful of public bus services have resumed, most of the public vans that connect coastal provinces have yet to start operating. Over the past several weeks, private drivers in places like Krabi, Surat Thani and Trat have been earning solid income by filling in gaps left by a shuttered public transport system.
Some long-distance trains are running again, but the State Railway of Thailand warned yesterday that travelers who intend to continue on to other provinces after disembarking at the current end of the Southern Line in Thung Song, “are now required to have a relative pick them up,” reported Bangkok Post.
The government hinted that unrestricted interprovincial travel is in the cards for next month. Local governors, however, make the final call for each province. I reckon that the easing of domestic travel restrictions will be confusing and sometimes messy, with little consistency on how rules are enforced. Still, for those of us currently in Thailand but situated away from the coast, the beach is getting closer and closer.
If you plan to travel in Thailand soon, I suggest downloading and filling out the T.8 medical form before setting out. And, especially if you’re coming from Bangkok or Phuket, getting a doctor to verify in writing that you show no symptoms of any illness is a good idea. Of course, a negative test result for Covid-19 will probably be the ultimate badge of travel freedom until a vaccine becomes available.
The Tourism Authority of Thailand updated the country’s motto from “Amazing Thailand” to “Amazing Trusted Thailand” as it begins to implement upgraded hygiene measures at hotels and attractions. International tourism remains a long way off for Thailand, though, with no official word on when it might resume.
Located 200 km east of Bangkok, the Chanthaburi coast might be my first Covid-era travel experiment.
In other news
Three police officers are in hot water after allegedly attempting to extort three million baht ($94,000 USD) from a seafood trader over a haul of cockles in Surat Thani, provoking an angry mob to surround their vehicle.
In Songkhla province, activists are worried that officials will approve a controversial deep-sea port project while restrictions related to Covid-19 make it illegal for local opposition to mobilize, reported Rina Chandran for Reuters.
In happier news, Thisrupt’s Choltanutkun Tun-Atiruj dipped a toe into Covid-19 era travel with a day trip to a fruit farm and homestay in Samut Sakhon. Yes, there is more to this province than the ugly sprawl of Rama II Highway.
Long-time Bangkok Post travel writer Pongpet Mekloy continued an ongoing recap of his travels during each month going back to the mid 2000s. The latest installment includes Ko Mak, Ko Lan, Phuket and Hua Hin.
CNN Travel producer Karla Cripps recounted her first journey to Thailand — including a painful motorbike accident on Ko Samui — in a story that manages to be both fun and gruesome. Thankfully, Karla recovered from her wounds and went on to write and produce loads of terrific travel content over the ensuing decades.
Finally, a reassuring National Geographic report by Cynthia Gorney tells us what we’ve been needing to hear: It’s safe to jump in the pool.🌴
Ko Tao unlocked as Thailand nears unrestricted domestic travel
Really enjoying your round-ups David, cheers.
FYI - The Transport Co Ltd, has announced the resumption of the inter-provincial bus services on the south routes from 1 June. The 3 routes are BKK - Phuket, BKK - Surathani and BKK - Trang
Yes, very good and very much appreciated. Thank you!!!